Noma vann, återtog sin plats, som världens bästa restaurang när The 50 Best Restaurants in the World 2014 presenterades i veckan. Gratulerar stort! Att den kulinariska miljön är en bra grogrund visade det sig också då flera danska restauranger placerade sig högt!
Jämtländska Fäviken i Järpen med Magnus Nilsson i spetsen placerade sig på 19:e plats och klättrade därmed från 34:e. Inte så dåligt! 3 år har de funnits på listan.
True hospitality in an inhospitable environment
With his long hair and beard and an ability to retain a certain style when dressed in all-weather gear – shotgun slung over one shoulder, a brace of hazelhens in hand – Magnus Nilsson has become the poster-boy for the new wave of Scandinavian cooking that has captured the world’s imagination.
The aforementioned look isn’t for the glossy magazines either: the tiny Fäviken lays claim to being among the most isolated restaurants on the planet (it has the same latitude as Iceland) and Nilsson can regularly be found foraging and hunting in the 20,000-acre hunting estate for ingredients to serve in his rustic dining room. This is no mean feat considering that the landscape in which Nilsson stalks is frozen for half of the year, meaning that his skills in preserving vegetables, meat and game have to match his talent behind the stove, which he possesses in abundance.
More than mere sustenance, a meal at Fäviken is something of a rite of passage. Nilsson’s cooking is bold and creative with seemingly simple preparations often requiring a time-honoured skill and patience that has long died out in many kitchens. A dish of rakfisk (fermented trout) and sour cream, for example, requires a three-day brine followed by a six-month maturing process where pH levels must be kept under continual observation. All this effort amounts to one, albeit delicious, bite for the lucky diner.
23:e plats tog Björn Franzén i år med Franzén .Till sin hjälp har an bland andra Årets Kock Filip Fastén och Victor Westerlind, Årets Kock 2009 och Pastrychef. Under året har de satsat på Studio Franzén som också är färdig och används nu!
Skilful and surprising Scandi cooking
The restaurant that was Frantzén/Lindeberg has now become Frantzén by virtue of the departure of Daniel Lindeberg; the pastry chef having said farewell to his friend Björn in May 2013. Over the previous five years the pair had built their bijou restaurant in central Stockholm into not just one of the best in Sweden, but in the world, and it retains a healthy position on this year’s list.
For Frantzén it is business as usual, and much is unchanged about the restaurant under the guidance of just one of its founding fathers. The compact dining room has retained its bright, clean and spartan feel while the cooking continues to blend Nordic ingredients – the majority are from Sweden, including many plucked straight from the restaurant’s own garden – with Asian and Far Eastern flavours.
Dishes often incorporate lesser-used ingredients, including small ‘prologue’ bites such as confit of pig’s head on pork skin; blood and liver pancake with cherries and violet, and galangal root macaron with bird’s liver. Sometimes it even extends to those that are even more challenging – dried reindeer penis, for example – but the kitchen’s dexterous and delicate treatment of its subjects raises them to new levels. Many are also highly involved and carefully constructed, displaying the lightness of touch and acute understanding of flavour for which the restaurant is renowned – even down to the bread, which comes with the restaurant’s signature home-made herb butter.